Safety - Rips and Currents
Be aware and take notice !!
A rip is a body of water that is pulling away from the beach and back out to sea.
A wave breaks and washes into shore, the water contained in the wave must move back out to sea. This happens by a channel being formed and the water flowing into it creates a current that is strong enough to pull out through the incoming waves.
As a beginner surfer what you need to know is that the rip only goes out as far as the farthest breaking waves. It will not drag you for miles and miles out to sea, if you find yourself in a rip you should go with it and then simply paddle to the side and catch a wave back in. Do not panic, be aware of what is happening, stay on your surfboard and keep an eye on the breaking waves which may become bigger as you go further out.
Rips are identifiable by a number of ways.
- The colouring of the water may have changed to a murky dirtier colour, this is caused by the sand being stirred up
- The surface of the water may be choppier or rougher, this is created by the incoming and outgoing flows of water colliding.
You may see surfers entering the water directly into a rip, an experienced surfer who wishes to surf the bigger outside waves can use the rip to be pulled out. It is the quickest and easiest way to get out.
Remember, you are a beginner, until your confidence and skill increase, conditions closer to the beach will most likely be more suited to your ability. You should stay within your limits and avoid rips and look forward to their assistance as you improve.
Currents run parallel with the beach, they can be quite strong and can drag you some distance if you are not aware of them. Before entering the water, identify a marker on the beach and keep referring to the marker when you are in the water to note your position.



